Help for battery relocation in 96 GSR (11psiGsr)

[The ANTI-RICE]

Ok, i have purchased all my hardware to attempt this mod. I ran 4 gauge battery cable from where the battery origanally was, to the rear the hatch.

I had 4 postive OEM connections at my "+" pole on battery. I used a "4 into 1" distribution block, and connected all 4 wires, PLUS the one new wire to the rear of the car.

Battery box is mounted behind pass. rear wheel. I grounded the battery at my rear upper shock tower/strut bar, with 4 guage wire as well.

Used 150amp fuse about 12 inches from "+" battery pole. By the way, i ran the power wire from OEM battery location through the center console and under the rear seats then to the rear.

Ok, i try it. Locks work, radio works, lights work, EVERYTHING WORKS. I goto CRANK the car and i hear "POP"?! Sounded JUST like a fuse blowing. So, i go check EVERY FUSE in and out of the car, everything seems fine!!! As of now, NOTHING WORKS in the car?!

So, being frstrated, i put everything back to normal, but left the battery box in trunk, and associated wire, as imay want to attempt theis again.

Can someone please help me out here? What would make my car do that? I mean all the accecories worked, but when i cranked, it jus POPPED!

Could i have a BAD GROUND? I dont have any metal on metal contact. Do i need a LARGER DIAMETER WIRE?

PLEASE HELP!
Tony

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96 GSR, Kills RICE in 4.96 seconds...

2000 STM Div. SOLO2 CLass Champion

Come see MY world... http://maxpsigsr.overboost.net

[BodidoGSR]

Double check the grounds, first.

Is the ground tightened against the chassis or the strut tower bar. It needs to be on the chassis. Did you grind off the paint? I've used dielectric (sp?) grease before to ward off rust and help with contact.

Are you using a good quality car audio grade, gold-plated brass ring for the ground? They're usually worth it.

If that doesn't help, try using the factory ground point right under the hatch lock. It's the best ground I've found for my stereo gear. Usually longer ground wires are frowned upon, but sometimes there is no other way.

Finally, 4 guage may not be enough. 4 guage is fine under the hood, but the longer the cable the more resistance. You may be fine, but I'd do the research. There are charts available that will recommend a certain guage for whatever your length and maxmum current draw needs are: Try some car stereo sites. You'll need to find what your starter draws in amps (I'd be interested in Knowing this). Add the current draw of all the accesories. And factor some safety margin in. I'm adding an Optima battery in the rear of my car. I'm still gonna have the factory battery in the front for starting, I'm using a dual battery isolater so the rear battery only powers the stereo. This will allow me to get away with four guage since only charging current will be crossing that power cable. You're in a different boat

Hope I helped.

Chad

[This message has been edited by BodidoGSR (edited December 03, 2000).]

[The ANTI-RICE]

Well, i appreciate the help. I will try your ground idea, i was leaning toward this anyway.

But NO FUSES BLEW! And when i hooked the batter back up in the front, no problems, kicked right over.

Im using jus normal battery cable bought from a AUTO STORE, not stereo cable, that stuff is like 2.50 a FOOT!! The AUTOSTORE cable is much cheaper, but im sure not as good, but for my application, i figure this to be fine.

The "BATTERY" fuse is rated at 50amp's, so go figure, im sure my 150amp MAIN fuse is sufficient.

But, still no explanation to EVERYTHING WORKS UNTIL I GOTO CRANK, then NOTHING WORKED?!

Ill look for different grounds, i may try the rear seat belt buckle holes, that HAS TO BE SOLID METAL!

Still looking for input.
Tony

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96 GSR, Kills RICE in 4.96 seconds...

2000 STM Div. SOLO2 CLass Champion

Come see MY world... http://maxpsigsr.overboost.net

[turbotypeR]

did you hook it straight to the starter,or to the wires that are to the batt?if not,run the 4 gauge straight to the starter then out to the dist. block.also,what size ground wire did you use?make sure it is at least the same size as the power and as short as possible.you will also want 4 gauge grounds to the engine.the factory grounds are not sufficient.as far as the grounding point is concerned,find a spot on the floor where there is nothing under the car and drill a hole and use a nut and bolt with lock washers.make sure to sand all of the paint off and make sure the connector touches the metal,not the bolt.paint it once you are through connecting it to prevent rust.as far as the connector goes,don't use gold.it is not a good conductor.the only reason it is availible is for looks.go to a stereo shop and get some such as the ones lightning makes called acid platinum.

[The ANTI-RICE]

Everything you jus described, i DID!

Ground wire is about 12inches, and i jus took the wires that WERE on my "+" pole, and plugged them into the DIST. BLOCK, then ran the power from there, ALL 4 GAUGE.

Hopefully, i can figure all this out soon. Ive sanded, used TOOTHED WASHER, and used 4 gauge ENGINE GROUND WIRES, in all 3 spots.

I am jus one wierd guy, with weird problems!
Tony

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96 GSR, Kills RICE in 4.96 seconds...

2000 STM Div. SOLO2 CLass Champion

Come see MY world... http://maxpsigsr.overboost.net

[MDA]

Wait, so when you put it all back together with the batter in the front it worked again ? Did your main 150 AMP fuse in the trunk blow ? This is sounds a little weird... but like was mentioned, 4 gauge may not be enough to carry the kind of current your starter needs all that distance..